I have used 12mm plywood to make the base of the headboard and the bedside table because that is what I had to hand. Equally good would have been chipboard, MDF or similar sheet material.

The first step is to decide on the size you want to make the headboard and/or bedside table.

This headboard is 91cm (36”) wide as this was the width of the bed and 60cm (24”) high.

The bedside table finished up at 340mm x 360mm x 500mm high partly because this was approximately the size I needed and partly because this was a convenient size for the cutting of the available board.

The headboard is a very simple construction and consists of two identical sized panels which are the finished size of the headboard. The first or front board supports the foam and the second (back) board is to fill the gap created by the brackets which would otherwise be left between the headboard and the wall. On the back of the front board you must decide on the best place to attach the fixing brackets which will hold the headboard to thewall.

Our brackets are very strong and one each side will be fine for most headboards. When deciding on the positioning of the brackets, bear in mind where the wall fixing part has to go as this may mean you have to move the bracket on the headboard to avoid cables etc. hidden in the wall.

Once the positions are decided, take your second piece of ply and cut an aperture which will allow the brackets on the front board to connect with the bracket which will be fixed to the wall when the headboard is finished. Leave space beneath the brackets to allow for the interlocking process and don’t go too close to the edge of the board. (Looking at the pictures should make more sense of this.)

Screw the two brackets to the front board, and then make sure your cut out (on the back board) leaves enough clearance to hang the finished item on the wall. Join the two pieces of board together using some woodworking adhesive and 20mm panel pins then give the finished headboard a rub down with glass/sand paper to smooth off any rough edges.

 

The bedside table is equally simple and consists of four sides, a top and a bottom.

The first job is to cut the four sides to size and then glue and pin them with the panel pins. You then have to cut the top panel which should fit on top of the side panels which you again glue and pin in place. This keeps the top square.

The base is slightly different as it has to fit inside the finished size of your box to allow an opening to conceal the excess fabric so the bedside table will sit flat on the floor. Position the base inside the open base end of the box approx 30mm up from the bottom edge.

You will see from the picture that I have cut a small hole in this to assist with the positioning while it is fixed in place with the glue and panel pins again.

Give the finished box a rub down with glass/sand paper to smooth off any rough edges.

 

The headboard shown was fitted with 25mm foam and covered in 2oz polyester wadding. This gives a finished depth of almost 40mm by the time the board is included. To increase the depth of the headboard use 35mm, 50mm or even 75mm thick foam.

Headboard.
The foam used here is RX39 CMHR (Combustion Modified High Resilient) which means that it is fire retardant when used with a suitable upholstery fabric.

Have the foam cut slightlylarger than the board giving an overlap of approx 5mm all the way around the board.

E-mail us for a price if a suitable size isn’t shown on our website; we can supply any size and thickness of foam or see buying materials below.

Use Spray Adhesive to stick the foam to the board taking care to position the foam with an equal overlap all around the board.

The foam is then covered in 2oz polyester wadding which is a thin but effective interliner between the foam and the fabric.

A thicker wadding can be used which will give a more rounded appearance to the finished article. The 2oz wadding comes in two widths:

• 27” wadding
• 54” wadding

and is sold by the metre so you can decide which width suits your headboard size better.

Allow enough wadding to cover the face of the headboard but also to wrap around the sides and slightly cover the back. This softens all the hard edges. Use the Spray Adhesive to attach the wadding.

Bedside table.
No foam is used here instead the entire frame is covered with the 2oz polyester wadding which also wraps under the base of the frame as shown in the picture.

Both items are upholstered in the same way and simplicity is the order of the day.

Basically the corners are sewn to give a neat finish. You can pleat the corners of the headboard (but not the bedside cabinet) or you can hand sew the seams of either piece using a linen thread and a 2½” circular needle.

In this example the corners are sewn on a machine. Because of the size of our headboard and bedside table it is possible to cut the entire piece of fabric from the width of the fabric with no joins other than the corners.

For larger items you may have to adjust the method for example sewing a border all around the face fabric of the headboard or sewing the side panels separately onto either piece.

E-mail us if you are unsure.

The principle for both pieces is the same.

Firstly check your fabric for flaws, and if applicable to centralise patterns or stripes then lay it face down on your cutting surface.

Place your headboard/bedside face down in the centre of the fabric and check that you have enough fabric on all four sides to comfortably wrap around the piece and staple on the back/bottom.

Make sure the headboard/bedside is square with the roll of fabric by using a straight rule and if available a right angle like a roofers square (which is an invaluable marking out tool in upholstery!)

 

1. Use your rule to mark lightly in chalk or pencil a continuation of the straight edges which are in contact with the fabric. This should leave you with a right angle in each corner and if this is not the case then your marking out is wrong or your board is not cut square! This is your SEWING LINE.
2. On each corner you need to mark the sewing allowance which is typically 15mm so you will have a second line which will also be a right angle outside of the first line. This is your CUTTING LINE.
   
3. On one corner mark an X on both the fabric on the sewing allowance which will not be visible and another (on the same corner) bottom of the headboard/bedside. (This will make sure you cover fits if the board is not exactly square).
4. Cut the corners out carefully following your cutting line so your sewing line is visible on the remaining fabric
   
5. Fold the corners of the fabric with the face sides together.
6. Staring in the corner sew along the sewing line making sure both ends are securely over stitched so as not to come undone. (If you turn the fabric over you should have sewn directly on the sewing line on this side as well)
   
7. Repeat on the other three corners.
   

 

1. Check which corner had your cross marked, turn cover the right way around and matching the corners with the cross with the mark on the headboard/bedside, slide the cover over the frame and pull into place. Using a regulator (or a blunt knife if you don’t have a regulator) push the extra fabric at the corners so that they are laying flat inside the cover.
2. Starting in one corner gently pull the slack from the fabric and fold it so that the seam runs squarely along one edge of the board. Use your regulator/knife to push the corner pleat so that it is square and neat and make sure it is not pulled too tight or too loose. There shouldn’t be any excess fabric but the foam shouldn’t be compressed out of shape either.
   
3. Repeat on the other three corners.
4. Start on any other side in the centre and gently pull the fabric over the edge of the headboard/bedside pulling the slack out but again not pulling it too tightly. Work your way to the corners stapling the fabric as you go gently teasing any excess fabric into pleats on the back/bottom of the piece so they are not visible on the sides. Visually check the front edges to ensure they are not “bumpy”.
   
5. For the headboard finish the corner with a neat fold at 45degrees as shown.
   
6. Turn the piece over and visually check it then if all is well go back to the back/bottom and trim all the excess fabric with a sharp knife.
7. Nothing more needs to be done to the headboard but the base of the bedside can be covered with a lining fabric such a dipryl for a neat finish. I have stuck felt pads onto the corners to make sure that and staples which might not be flush with the surface do not damage the wooden floor.
   

 

You will now need to drill and screw the brackets to the wall to accept your headboard.

Depending on the type of wall you will have to decide on the most appropriate fixings but just watch out for cables or pipes which may be hidden!

The top of the bedside table should be protected by glass. Carefully measure the size of the top of the bedside and visit your local glass shop and ask for a piece of glass with polished edges. They will advise you on the best type to buy and it shouldn’t be too expensive. This glass will just sit on the top of the bedside table without any further fixings.

 

• 2oz polyester wadding 27” per metre
• 2oz polyester wadding 54” per metre
• RX39 foam 25mm (1”) cut to size
• RX39 foam 35mm (1½”) cut to size
• RX39 foam 50mm (2”) cut to size
• RX39 foam 75mm (3”) cut to size
• Dipryl
• Spray Adhesive
• Regulator
• Staple Remover
• Linen thread (If you are hand sewing corners)
• 2½” circular needle (If you are hand sewing corners)
• Staple Guns
• Staples
• Headboard Brackets
• Felt Pads