• 35mm 1½” Pirelli webbing or
• 50mm 2″ Pirelli webbing
• Revolving Punch Plier 2-4.8mm and
• 1 pair of staple and plate per web.
  .
  You will not require a webbing stretcher!

• 
  Remove old webbing from frame, extract wooden dowels and put them to one side.

• Take roll of rubber webbing. Do not cut it at this stage. Notice that one side
  of the webbing has a textured finish. This side should be uppermost in situ.
  
• Feed one end of the webbing through one of the back slots in the chair frame
  from top to bottom.
  
• Fold over the end of the webbing to form a loop of approx 5” (125mm). The
  short end should be underneath. (See diagram A)
  
• Using a staple and plate, fix the webbing together. You will notice the position of the rivets in the
  webbing you took out, the staples should go in a similar place so that when the webbing is pulled into
  the frame you will not see the staples from the top of the frame but you will be able to comfortably
  insert the wooden dowel into the loop you have formed.Make sure you fold the legs of the staples tightly.
  The trick is to flatten the staples and to do this either use mole grip type pliers, a vice or a hammer.
  (If the leg of the staple gets dislodged whilst being pulled through the frame so that it does not ‘ping’ back
  into place when under tension, use a flat bladed screwdriver to flatten the leg from under the frame.)

• Pull the loop and dowel into place and without stretching the webbing extend it to cross the
  opposite slot at the front of the chair and make a mark where the webbing crosses the top of the
  slot (See diagram B)

• Using the mark you have just made on the webbing make a second mark approx 1” (25mm) behind
  (going towards the back of the chair)
  
• Fold the webbing under at the second mark and staple the webbing approx 1”
  (25mm) from the end of the fold.
  
• Using a length of string threaded through the loop and through the slot in the chair (from top to
  bottom) pull the webbing loop through the chair frame and insert a wooden dowel into the loop as it
  appears underneath the frame .

You could try tying the string ends together under the frame and using your foot for extra leverage
which leaves both hands free to push the webbing through (stop it bunching up) and then to hold it
bove the frame whilst you insert the dowel underneath into the loop.
When you release the tension, the loop should pull back into the rebate under the frame but
the staple is preventing this happening, just ease it from underneath with a flat bladed screwdriver..

• The webbing should spring back into place when released from the string and
  should be under the correct tension. (there should be no slack in the finished
  web)
  
• Withdraw the string and repeat on all subsequent webs.
• The sideways webs are slightly different as follows:
  • On the chairs use ½” (15mm) to make the second mark.
  • On settees and daybeds, stretch the webbing to gauge where the end of the loop should be.
  • The sideways webs MUST be interwoven for extra strength and support.